CMT or full package: two businesses, two ways of costing
From Tangier to Casablanca by way of Fez, many factories work for European brands under one of two models. In CMT (cut, make, trim) subcontracting, the customer supplies the fabric and often the trims: the factory mainly sells sewing time. In full package, the factory buys fabric and accessories itself, carries the stock and finances the cash gap, but keeps a better margin if it costs accurately.
Either way, negotiation comes down to a few centimes per piece, lead times are short and headcount moves with orders. A few extra centimetres of fabric per piece or forgotten cutting waste, multiplied by thousands of pieces, is enough to turn a profitable order into a loss. In CMT work, your bill of materials only contains what you supply yourself: thread, labels or packaging depending on the contract.
- Price per piece negotiated to the last centime
- Cutting waste that varies with the style and the marker
- Short lead times set by the brand
- Headcount that rises and falls with orders
The material cost of a polo shirt, worked out before you quote
A style's bill of materials lists fabric, thread, buttons, labels and packaging, with a waste rate on the fabric. Example for a polo shirt: 1.35 m of fabric per piece with 6% cutting waste, or 1.431 m consumed, at 32 DH per metre; 0.024 of a thread cone (about 120 m of a 5,000 m cone) at 17 DH per cone; 3 buttons at 0.35 DH; 2 labels (brand and composition) at 0.45 DH; one individual polybag at 0.35 DH. Material cost comes to 48.50 DH per polo, of which 45.79 DH is fabric.
To answer a request for 1,200 polos, the factory adds its own estimate of labour and workshop overheads, here 21.50 DH per piece, for a full cost of 70.00 DH. With a 15% margin on that cost, the price quoted is 80.50 DH excl. VAT per piece, or 96,600 DH excl. VAT for the order. SOGESTIO supplies the material share from the average cost of your stock; sewing time remains your estimate, which you then compare with actuals through cost accounting.
Waste matters: without the 6%, fabric would be costed at 43.20 DH per piece instead of 45.792 DH, a gap of 3,110.40 DH on the 1,200 polos.
| Item | Basis | Per polo | For 1,200 polos |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric | 1.35 m + 6% waste = 1.431 m at 32.00 DH per metre | 45.792 DH | 54,950.40 DH |
| Thread | 0.024 cone at 17.00 DH | 0.408 DH | 489.60 DH |
| Buttons | 3 at 0.35 DH | 1.05 DH | 1,260.00 DH |
| Labels | 2 at 0.45 DH | 0.90 DH | 1,080.00 DH |
| Polybag | 1 at 0.35 DH | 0.35 DH | 420.00 DH |
| Material cost (calculated by SOGESTIO) | Sum of components | 48.50 DH | 58,200.00 DH |
| Labour and workshop overheads | Factory estimate | 21.50 DH | 25,800.00 DH |
| Full cost | — | 70.00 DH | 84,000.00 DH |
| Quoted price | 15% margin on full cost | 80.50 DH | 96,600.00 DH |
Manufacturing orders per customer order and per style
Each customer order becomes one or more manufacturing orders, one per style. Before cutting starts, SOGESTIO compares the components needed with the stock available: if you are 300 metres of fabric or some buttons short, you know before the line stops. Requirements planning does the same across all open orders and tells you what to buy.
On completion, fabric and trims leave stock according to the bill of materials and the finished pieces enter stock at the actual cost consumed. If real cutting waste exceeds the planned rate, the fabric stock count reveals it, and you correct the bill of materials for the next orders and quotes.
Two limits to know: SOGESTIO has no size-and-colour grid, and it does not schedule sewing lines or machines. If you need stock by size or colour, each variant is created as a separate item. The software covers production management: bills of materials, orders, stock, cost and requirements.
A large workforce: contracts, alerts and leave
A garment factory often employs several hundred people on different kinds of contract. The HR module records permanent (CDI), fixed-term (CDD), ANAPEC, internship and temporary contracts, and alerts you before a contract or trial period ends so the decision is taken in time.
Leave and absences are counted in working days, Monday to Saturday, excluding fixed-date public holidays. The paid-leave balance follows the usual legal rule: 1.5 days per month of service, plus 1.5 days per 5 years of seniority, capped at 30 days. Leave requests go through the approval workflow; for special cases, check with your legal adviser.
Payroll for hundreds of employees without losing a week
Payroll produces payslips with CNSS, AMO, income tax and seniority for the whole workforce. The payroll entry is posted automatically, the preparatory DAMANCOM file is used for the CNSS return and the preparatory 9421 statement is transferred into SIMPL-IR. Figures should still be checked by your payroll lead or accountant before filing.
A point often misunderstood: a plan's user count is the number of people who log in to SOGESTIO (management, HR, stores, accounting), not the employees you pay.
Foreign brands: documents, exemptions and UBL
Quotes, invoices and delivery notes are generated in English, French or Arabic with your logo, which makes life easier with a Spanish, French or British buyer. An exempt rate (0%) is available for transactions that qualify, to be confirmed with your accountant.
SOGESTIO exports validated invoices in the structured UBL 2.1 format (with ICE, IF and RC), which prepares the move to the e-invoicing system announced by the DGI. If your business is split across several companies, for example a manufacturing company and a trading company, the Groupe plan manages each separately with a consolidated view.
Which plan for a garment factory?
Production, purchasing, HR and payroll are included in Pro, at 449 DH/month or 4,490 DH/year excl. VAT, for one company and up to 10 users. Groupe, at 990 DH/month excl. VAT, includes three companies, up to 30 users and consolidation. For a site that wants to keep its data on its own premises, the On-premise edition installs on your server, on quotation. The 14-day free trial needs no bank card and no commitment.
Frequently asked questions
How do you calculate the cost price of a garment?
Add up the material cost, cutting waste included, then labour and workshop overheads. SOGESTIO calculates the first part from the style's bill of materials and the average cost of your stock: 48.50 DH of materials per polo in our example. You add your sewing-time estimate to get the full cost.
Does SOGESTIO work for CMT subcontracting?
Yes. In CMT work the fabric belongs to the brand, so the bill of materials only includes the trims you supply, and you invoice the sewing service. Contracts, payroll and accounting work the same way.
Can we manage sizes and colours?
SOGESTIO has no size-and-colour grid. If you need to track stock by size or colour, each variant is created as a separate item, with its own bill of materials if needed.
Is the leave balance calculated automatically?
Yes, following the usual legal rule: 1.5 days per month of service, plus 1.5 days per 5 years of seniority, capped at 30 days, counted in working days. Have special cases checked by your legal adviser.
Do we need one user per employee?
No. Users are the people who log in to the software. A factory with several hundred employees can run its payroll on the Pro plan, which includes up to 10 users.
Can invoices be issued in English?
Yes. Quotes, invoices and delivery notes are generated in English, French or Arabic, with your logo, ICE, IF and RC numbers. The exempt rate is available for transactions that qualify, to be confirmed with your accountant.